Attempt the third. Only slight progress from attempt the second, I'm afraid; I overshot on the heat correction to the point that the wife (who is no spice lightweight) found it a bit uncomfortable to eat. Switching from rice to soba didn't help with the heat mitigation, of course.I doubled the ginger and salted black bean liquor from my last recipe, and threw in a fresh serrano pepper. The ginger and serrano finished kicking the hot/sour balance up to what I wanted, and the extra liquor slightly nudged the depth in the right direction. I'm still missing some magic vegetarian ingredient to add some meat-fat-like profundity.
I've updated the Kitchenarium recipe to reflect the desired heat. I also added a terser printable version of the recipe that fits on one page and omits all my blathering.
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